T h e P h i l i p p i n e s
- a totally awesome adventure...
For some reason or other we made a decision to travel to the Philippines for our December break, just prior to heading to Melbourne for a family Christmas. Due to a flight change Jordy & Bryan went a couple of days ahead of Felicity & Xavier (who was in KL playing soccer) to have a (quick) look at Manila.
The Philippines astounded us all. Manila felt dangerous; the poverty, congestion, pollution and hassling on the streets kept us feeling a bit edgy and on our guard for the time that we were there. Our first dangerous moment was when, after making our way through the traffic and crowded pavements from the Pasay bus terminal to Edsa LRT station, the train pulled up and during a commotion boarding, all of a sudden I was on, Jordy was off and the doors were closed! Fortunately, they reopened and he jumped on, but this was enough to impress upon us the need to lift our game and keep constantly alert in this city.
In Manila we visited Chinatown and the Quiapo Church where we got a sense of Spanish Catholicism, a bit different from the Irish stuff we are used to back home. Myriad incarnations of Mary in glittering gowns and even a statue of the child Jesus looking like a little aristocrat from a 15th century European court - complete with brocaded robes, knee high boots and human hair!
On our second day we visited the Chinese cemetery and Intramuros, both quieter destinations away from the heavy traffic of downtown Manila. The cemetery was like a miniature city with tombs the size of small apartments - some with toilets and kitchens. Intramuros gave us an insight into the Spanish culture of the colonial period. We visited San Augustin church and the adjacent priests quarters - now a museum. It was grand, ornate and heavily iconographic. We really enjoyed our visit here.
Jordy at Manila Bay on our first night in the Philippines.
The statue of the black Nazarene, which is reputed to have miraculous powers, at Quiapo church . Very fervent religious devotion going on here.
Outside Quiapo church.
The courtyard of the San Augustin museum in Intramuros.
In Manila we stayed at Pensionne Natividad. Quite good, but the poverty on the streets immediately outside was confronting.
On the walls of Intramuros.
The Chinese cemetery - bizarre. Tombs as big as houses in a miniature city for the dead!
Some of the famous Manila jeepneys.
After a couple of days in Manila we headed back to Clarke airport to meet Felicity & Xave coming in from Singers and got straight on a bus to Baguio, begining our two day journey up to Sagada high up in the mountains of the Cordillera in Northern Luzon. We over-nighted in Baguio, in a not very nice hotel but the dinner and breakfast at Pizza Volante were excellent. The next day was another early start as we got on the 7.30am bus to Sagada and continued our climb into the mountains. It was an awe inspiring six hour journey on winding roads, around hairpin bends and through incredibly spectacular mountain scenery.
The town of Baguio from just near the bus station.
Waiting for the bus to Sagada.
This lady was pleased when Felicity & Jordy bought her entire stock of purses woven from recycled chip packets.
On the road, climbing the hills of the Cordillera on the way to Sagada.
Kids selling passionfruit...delicious!!
Breathtaking scenery.
One of the highlights of our visit to Sagada was the day we went white water rafting. I organised it with an American Steve Rogers who is training up local crews. We did it on the Chico River and can definitely say it made what we did in Thailand a few years ago look like a theme park.
We survived the class 4 rapids of the Chico River!
Some of the rapids we went through on our trip. They don't look much from the photos but when you are plummeting through them, some even backwards on the raft, they are incredibly thrilling and a little dangerous!! though the crew knew what they were doing and we were well briefed for the trip.
Half way through the adventure. At this stage Xave had come out of the raft twice and was nursing a couple of scrapes from his encounters with rapids & rocks.
Another day was a surprising and equally exhilarating caving adventure. Here, we are down in the bowels, 650 - 700 meters below ground, with a guide skipping over the rocks holding a kerosene lamp in one hand and us clambering around and holding on for dear life. We went down, down , down and had a swim in a deep, cold pool.
A stack of old coffins in the Latang cave - very small with the bodies buried in the foetal position.. From here you can do a 3 hour trek underground to another cave - quite claustrophobic apparently.
Some of the hanging coffins on the way to the caves.
Dog & pork were on the menu in quite a few local restaurants!
Terraces and views on our way to the caves...
The view from the balcony of the Yoghurt Inn where we ate many of our meals.
...around the town.
Sur le balcon...
Looking down over the town of Sagada on an early morning walk.
Sitting on the verandah of our cabin at St Joseph's Resthouse.
Gazing at...
Unfortunately the shower didn't work so they transferred us ...
to this...
did you hear us complaining?...
...pardon??!!
On our second day we did a trek through the rice terraces to Bomod Ok. A magnificent walk from the village of Aguid down through the terraces to a thundering water fall..
With heaps of village life along the way.
Despite the cool conditions, in true Aussie style we swam in the freezing pool... invigourating...
Our guide took a short cut on the way back, but it was incedibly steep and caused a bit of burn in the leg muscles as we dragged ourselves back to the road at the top.
We visited Sagada Weaving and this place (Taman Aw - I think) where the weavers were mute. They were glad to see us and we bought some lovely pieces from them.
The view from behind their weaving workshop.
Walking back along the road to Sagada through the pine forrests in the absolutely finest, warm, sunny weather.
Watching the clouds roll off the hills in the early morning at Mt Kiltepan...
...to reveal the glassy terraces below.
Asian ingenuity is also very evident in the Philippines!
Top-riding on jeepneys - highly illegal in most countries - but what a way to see the spectacular landscape around Sagada!
Our final day. We caught a jeepney to Bontoc, a much bigger town than I had imagined but nowhere near as pretty as Sagada. We visited the small but captivating Bontoc museum run by a nun. We saw and read much about the local tribes and their traditions and customs. The boys accidentally jumped into an enclosure with a sleeping pig, needless to say when the pig awoke with a snort and a grunt they made a hasty exit!
After a 12 hour bus ride back to Manila we jumped into a cab and headed straight to the airport for an 8.00am flight to Puerto Princessa on the island of Palawan. We spent a day here then took an early morning van to El Nido in the top north western corner of the island. A rough trip with a maniac driver and the last 60 km on a gravel road!
Dinner in El Nido one evening.
The boys & I took a couple of kayaks and went to a few quiet beaches nearby, somebody else was relaxing with a book. Unbelievable scenery and as you can see ... and very, very crowded!!!
One of the main things to do around El Nido is to take boat trips to the islands of the Bacuit Archipelago. There are three or four main tours. We did 'A' & 'C'. 'A' took us to us series of lagoons and beaches where we swam & snorkelled, 'C' took us further out into the South China Sea (rougher water) and into the straight between Miniloc and Tapituan Islands. Here we visited a deserted mansion built by a millionaire and also swam through a small opening in the cliff face to get into a secret beach completely surrounded by sheer walls of rock.
A gorgeous secluded beach about 30 mins stroll from our resort at Coron Coron.
Lunch on an improvised table on our first tour. The guys were barbecuing squid, fish and chicken.
The sunsets at Coron Coron are reputed to be the best in the area...We only had one good one while we were there but as you can see it was quite a beauty!!
We looked straight out onto it from where we were staying. No photoshoping here!
Mooring on some lovely beaches to swim, snorkel, play and relax.
Enjoying the cruise into Big lagoon before heading off for more snorkelling along a deep rocky ledge.
Getting more adventurous and riding on the wings of the boat.
The front of Greenviews where we stayed in Coron Coron about 3 km out of El Nido.
The view between Miniloc & Tapituan from the deserted house/retreat centre.
Colour of rock, water and greenery in the Bacuit Archipelago.
Some of the local dwellings along the beach. A lot more poverty was evident here than in Sagada.
Taking the bus back to Puerto, hoping for a top-ride but alas we had rain most of the way.
Then it was back to Singapore for the weekend, repacking and off to Melbourne for Christmas. We caught up with former colleagues and friends and spent time with familiar and newer members of the family. We also reunited with our beloved Dusty, who is now enjoying the high life in Bermagui, coastal NSW.
All in all, it was an unexpected but utterly fulfilling adventure - one that will be remembered for many years to come. And if you're looking for an extra special Asian destination, the Philippines could just be it.
