Tuesday, September 1, 2009

Ramadan, Hungry Ghosts and 'Happy Teachers Day'!





We are just about at the end of our second term of teaching (and for the boys going to school) in Singapore. We are so much more acclimatised, some days even feel cooler and some of us, notably Felicity and Xave, even get cold in the air-con busses in the morning. Things have been moving along. we had a visit from my cousin Paul on his way back to China. Liverpool have been in town, Xave went to see them and gradually we are feeling more settled here.

One weekend took us down to Henderson Waves, a structure which joins two city parks, Kent Ridge Park and Mt Faber Park - where the cable car departs for Sentosa. Henderson Waves is a bridge, built in a wave formation that crosses above the expressways below and allows pedestrians to walk from one park to another, whilst admiring views out over Singapore. It was rather hazy when we were there, as this is the season when all the burning off happens in Sumatra.

Another area we have been to have a look at is Joo Chiat Road. It’s a bit of a night club area, but has many old magnificent shop houses that are very well maintained and painted in a range of both tasteful colours and gaudy pinks, oranges, greens, blues and purples. Our intention was to have a look around and eat in one of the Nyona restaurants that had been recommended, but as we were walking we came upon a run of Vietnamese cafes – so it was pho and rice paper rolls for dinner.

Ramadan began a week ago, Muslim teachers on the staff and kids in our classes now fast all day at school. They eat their food for the day before 5.30am in the morning and do not eat or drink again until after sunset in the evening. On the eve of Ramadan we ventured down to Geylang Serai to see the streets decorated with colourful blue and gold arches and all lit up with festive lighting. Dozens of food stalls were being set up along Geylang Road. People come out to feast at night, eating all manner specially prepared foods, sweet, savory and everything in between. It gets very crowded but has a buzzy atmosphere. Across the road were heaps of market stalls selling clothing, Arabian style curtains, statues, even cars and motor bikes. Perhaps it is considered more auspicious to buy during this month.
Alongside Ramadan, another Daoist festival now taking place is the Festival of the Hungry Ghosts. There has been quite a bit of activity in and around the HDB blocks up where we live. I stumbled across a Peking Opera being rehearsed behind our local wet market last Sunday afternoon. They were getting ready for an evening performance. In many places, huge red and white canopies are erected and inside makeshift restaurants are set up. I am not totally sure what goes on but there are often baskets of groceries that seem to be set up for auction. There are also many altars with offerings of fruit, incense and flowers.
The boys & I went down to Balestier Road last Saturday evening and saw one area where a Chinese orchestra was playing and a table had been set up with places for the ghosts to sit and eat. Apparently, at a certain time of the year the gates of hell open and the ghosts come out to roam around. They need to be entertained and fed. Apparently it all used to be Peking Opera but now can include the occasional scantily clad women strutting their stuff. Even the ghosts’ tastes have modernized! In inconspicuous places along the streets, curbsides and on open grass areas we often see orange cakes set out with incense burning. It has been quite interesting seeing it all going on. It’s not a big out there festival but seems to happen around the HDB areas where the people live – which I guess makes sense.

Another celebration that has involved us in a big way has been Teachers’ Day. Actually Teachers’ Day is today and we had the day off – beat that Australia. It’s quite a big deal here. Both Felicity & I have had big staff functions. Mine was last Friday at a down town hotel where we were all treated to a formal eight course Chinese dinner – very swanky. Felicity’s was sixties style on Saturday night at a venue in Orchard Road and several of the gals on the staff danced out the night at the Rupee Room – a Bollywood style disco down at Clarke Quay. In addition to the dinners, we also had a big celebration at school with a scrumptious breakfast, concert put on by the kids and an early finish. Not bad for a Monday in the last week of term. The kids also present teachers with gifts such as home-baked biscuits, cards, sweets and other mementoes that they often make themselves.
So for our Teachers’ Day off today, we hit the zoo. Singapore Zoo was not a disappointment. The primate exhibits are sensational, with so many different varieties of monkeys in open style enclosures swinging through the tree tops. You can get quite close to them. There is a free ranging Orang Utang section where they are literally cruising across vines above your head. The tropical vegetation and layout of the zoo is also very well designed. The location is like a small promontory of land on one of eh reservoirs –so there’s heaps of water and green around. It was a very engaging day for all of us. We saw some absolutely massive pythons and watching the elephants bathe was delightful.
Other things that have happened, Jordy has started a Drama class at Stage 3, which is in an Arts Venue house in a lovely old Asian style house built around a central courtyard. He's really enjoying the classes and has met some new people who he enjoys hanging out with. We have also been exploring the food horizons in Singapore. Bryan is still enjoying the durian and has sampled D24, D48 and the Red Lobster. He's also tried Kway Chap - dared by a staff member. It's a local speciality and involves all sorts of bits and pieces of the pig. I won't bother to mention everything that's in it - enough to put you off your kway chap! Don't think its gonna become a big favourite. One that is though, you can see being made at our kitchen table - Kuey Pie Tee - exquisite little pastry cups filled with shredded turnip and a variety of condiments including sweet chilli, molasses, egg and corriander all piled on top. Outstanding!!